Mountain Biking the Munda Biddi Trail, WA

With around 1,000km of signposted trail, the recently completed Munda Biddi is a no-holds-barred multi-day epic. Peter Whiteley shares his experience after covering the entire route. 

Construction on the Munda Biddi started way back in 2001 and this year saw the final stages completed in this landmark Western Australian trail. 

Derived from Noongar Aboriginal language, the name Munda Biddi translates as ‘path through the forests’ and that is exactly what you get for the majority of the ride. The trail is approximately 1,000km long and takes you from Mundaring, near Perth, to Albany on the south coast.

The Munda Biddi is nearly all on dirt, covering a variety of singletrack, forest trails and dirt roads. A handful of sections are on the bitumen, with the longest being the 13km just south of Nannup. Apart from passing through or near several well-known towns, much of the riding is in undeveloped forest. It ranges from open jarrah forests in the north to the giant tingle and karri stands further south. Occasionally you pop out of the forest into farmland, but even then the roads and tracks are very quiet apart from the rare highway crossing that has to be negotiated. The trail provides a long distance connection between local mountain bike loops and rail trails and it would seem likely that other local trails will be developed in the future to loop off the Munda Biddi.

The terrain profiles on the Munda Biddi trail maps rate large sections of the trail as ‘easy’, especially where the trail travels along abandoned timber tramways or on well graded forest roads. These parts are cruisy and relaxing, and can be tackled with relative ease on a hybrid or cyclocross bike. However, each day also includes medium and challenging sections that make the Munda Biddi proper mountain bike country if you want to take on the whole route. In addition to the existing track, the builders are continuing to add more singletrack to further enhance the experience. You’ll be rolling peacefully down a forest road only to slam on the anchors and disappear between the trees on a twisting and undulating narrow trail. These bits are designed with fun in mind, not just as a means of getting from A to B.

Wide, grippy tyres become especially important in dealing with the many surface types that you’ll encounter. In the north you have to contend with areas of pea gravel, which I can only liken to riding through a deep layer of ball bearings. When a round of the World Rally Championship was held in this area the drivers often referred to the challenge of slipping and sliding along ball bearing roads. Even without 300 horsepower on tap, you’ll face a similar challenge in maintaining traction—climbing is tough and downhill cornering is an interesting exercise. Just when you think you’ve overcome the pea gravel on the journey south, you begin to encounter sand—great for building castles and leg strength but very tiring. You may even appreciate a bit of rain to dampen these tracks down. Mud isn’t much of an issue, as most of the soil in this part of Australia is sandy, but you will encounter short, rocky sections on some of the singletrack. Because you are riding mainly in forests you will also encounter leaf litter, tree roots and fallen bits of tree. Some of the latter can be a metre or two in diameter and are best tackled with a chainsaw, but you’ll also find plenty of smaller logs to test your jumping skills—especially if you do the ride after a storm has been through.

There are many fun sections of singletrack, but the ones that stand out in my memory are the rocky, switchback descent to Honeymoon Pool (south of Collie), the Whoopty Do track below the Gloucester Tree at Pemberton and the roller coaster ride through the sand dunes between Greens Pool and Denmark. Then there is the section around Dandalup campsite … and then … I could go on and on.

For a short trip with a bit of mountain biking fun, try the section from Mundaring to and around the Carinya Mountain Bike Trail. For an easier day with no challenges to daunt any member of the family, check out the Sidings Rail Trail. It forms part of the Munda Biddi to the north of Nannup and there’s a separate map for this rail trail—it makes for a peaceful tour through the forest. The most demanding sections of the Munda Biddi tend to be in the northern half with some steep and technical singletracks, especially at river gorge crossings.

The newer sections of the trail between Northcliffe and Albany have more on-road riding than in the north, but most are minor, unsealed forest tracks where you are more likely to see a kangaroo than a car. Many of these could be classified as double-track rather than roads. The terrain is generally not as steep as in the north but the hills do tend to be longer, which can make them gut-busting or exhilarating depending whether you are going up or down. At regular intervals you’ll be diverted on to specially constructed singletrack sections which are a pure delight. At the time of our ride there was evidence of ongoing singletrack construction, which should only add to the fun factor on the Munda Biddi.

Remote yet Accessible

How do you find your way along all these tracks and roads? Well you check the map regularly and follow the numerous directional arrows. You will find an explanation of the signage on the Munda Biddi maps, but in general there are plenty of arrows with the Munda Biddi logo on them at major intersections or wherever you have to make a turn. These are reassuringly backed up by further arrows after the intersection, plus extra ones on long sections between turns.

Several colours are used to indicate different things and you have to be careful to only follow signs with the Munda Biddi logo on them, as you will see other arrows such as those for the Bibbulman Track as well as local mountain bike and walking trails. There are few location name signs and no distance markers, so a bike computer or GPS may prove handy if, like us, you find yourself at an intersection with no Munda Biddi markers—it seems we were too busy discussing lunch and shot straight through an intersection, completely missing the Munda Biddi trail signage.

Not a day goes by without riding through fantastic scenery. From the open forests of the north with their grass trees, ferns, banksias and grevilleas through the towering karri and tingle forest to the coastal glimpses from Walpole to Albany; it is a great and varying environment to travel through. Watch for kangaroos bounding across the trail ahead of you and for emus which take off in giant two-metre strides if you alarm them. Also be wary of the semi-domesticated emu at Quinninup Caravan Park which will peck at shoelaces, tent zippers and even ears as it searches for food. I never thought I’d have to take a stranglehold on an emu to retrieve a favourite book-mark, but even this national symbol needs to be taught to behave itself!

Logistically, doing this ride in its entirety will take some planning. There are 12 strategically placed cyclist-only campsites along the trail. These have a shelter for sleeping and eating, undercover bike parking, water tanks, a toilet and camping areas. They are free and work on a first come, first served basis—riders are advised to carry camping gear in case the sleeping shelter is full. Large groups have to pre-register their timetable for doing the ride, so other riders can see in advance on the DEC website if any campsites are likely to be full. These are very good, basic facilities and for the most part, they are cannot be accessed by private motor vehicles. Some campsites have good views or short walks to points of interest. Interspersed with the towns and commercial tourist parks on or near the trail, they allow for riding distances of about 25 to 50km per day. The main exception is the 75km stretch from Denmark to Albany, which is an easy ride for a fit cyclist, even for those carrying panniers as I was assured by a couple we met up with. Even here there is a camping area a few kilometres off the trail which could be used if necessary.

Don’t expect to find drinking water along the trail. You’ll be reliant on the tank water at the campsites and in towns. Obviously you’ll only find food in the towns, so it becomes important to carry sufficient supplies to keep your energy levels up. Also, several of the towns have bike shops—to find an up-to-date list check out the MBTF website.

If you don’t want to carry all your gear in panniers or tow a bike trailer, the need for planning becomes greater. Our small group drove to Western Australia and we used the vehicle for support throughout the ride. Early in the ride one person would take the vehicle to the end point for that day and then ride out to meet the rest of the group coming down the trail. But for most of the journey we had the services of a non-riding driver. Being of a ‘certain age’ our group clung to luxuries such as hot showers and a cold beverage at the day’s end, so we sometimes did several days on the trail whilst returning to the same town at night. Even for those wanting to do day rides on the trail, a vehicle drop system would be an advantage as there are only a few opportunities to do loop rides on the Munda Biddi.

Despite the complication involved in using a vehicle, our group all agreed it was the best way to go. Of course many others would enjoy being self-sufficient, but for us the opportunity to ride unlaiden bikes on the more technical sections added to the buzz. Some sections would be quite tough with fully loaded panniers (or dragging a trailer), so pack light if you want to tackle the route without external assistance.

Lattes & Luxury

Whilst the trailside camps looked great, we enjoyed having the time to explore the towns as each had its own appeal. The search for the best vanilla slice, combined with milkshake or latte, took up a bit of our time but there were plenty of other things to do. There are forest train rides from Dwellingup station and in Pemberton – where you can also tour the working timber mill, an interesting little local museum in Northcliffe, you can revive childhood memories at the free fun park in Donnybrook (reputed to be the largest in Australia) and you can climb the Gloucester Tree on the trail just out of Pemberton. It is a giant karri tree that has a fire lookout hut swaying away in its top branches, 72 metres above ground. If you enjoy being in the tree tops then you’ll get another chance between Walpole and Denmark when the trail passes near the Tree Top Walk; an elevated walkway that leads through towering tingle trees in the ‘Valley of the Giants’.

If the weather is cooperating there are several opportunities for swimming, particularly as you touch on the coast during the last few days towards Albany. At least a day can be spent in Albany riding the local bike paths, swimming at beautiful beaches or visiting the museums at Whale World or Princess Royal Fortress on Mount Adelaide.

We allowed for rest days in our schedule and tried to take them in towns where there was something to see or do once the washing and bike checking was finished. Because we encountered rain on a few days, it was handy to have some slack in the itinerary so we didn’t have to ride on two particularly bad days.

Post-ride hunger pangs provided the excuse to sample cafes and bakeries along the way, and we generally weren’t disappointed. The Jarrahdale and Donnelly River general stores, Blackwood Cafe in Nannup and the Millhouse Cafe in Dwellingup were all worth the visit. For those seeking a healthier diet, look for the delicious apples from roadside stalls (or even fallen apples in orchards as you ride past) around Donnybrook, the apple centre of Western Australia.

At town information centres you can get help with what to see, accommodation and also pick up cyclist guide brochures for that particular town. Printed by the MBTF these include town maps and a list of cyclist friendly businesses. Most towns have a choice of accommodation, from caravan parks to swish bed and breakfasts, but do your homework before going. Jarrahdale, for example, isn’t much more than a general store surrounded by houses and it has no camping facilities.

While there’s plenty to see along the way, this trail is as much about the riding—the rest just adds to the experience. Start off keen for a challenge and you won’t be disappointed. You don’t have to be a gun mountain biker, but you will need some confidence and capable bike handling skills. You also need to cope with undulating off-road terrain and be able to go the distance. Completing the entire length of the Munda Biddi is quite an achievement and it’s definitely a ride to include in your bucket list. Have a go—you won’t be disappointed.

Project Evolution

The concept for a long distance off-road cycle trail first surfaced in the mid 1990s during the refurbishment of the Bibbulmun Track, the 1,000km long walking track between Kalamunda (near Perth) and Albany. Initially driven by the West Australian Mountain Bike Association and a small group of passionate off-road cyclists called the ‘Friends of the Hardwood Trail’, funding was sought from Lotterywest to look into the feasibility of building a ‘sustainable, world-class, long distance off-road cycle trail’.

In late 1999, a development plan was completed and the Department of Conservation and Land Management (now Department of Environment and Conservation or DEC) accepted the role as trail managers, commencing construction in January 2001. By then the trail had been renamed the Munda Biddi Trail and the Munda Biddi Trail Foundation (MTBF) was formed to assist DEC and other land managers to get the trail project off the ground.

In July 2004 the first stage of the trail was opened from Mundaring to Collie, covering a distance of 332km. By the end of 2008 construction was completed on the 140km stretch from Collie to Jarrahwood. This linked with the existing 26km Sidings Rail Trail, taking it to Nannup and halfway to the final destination.

The southern half of the Munda Biddi was completed in Autumn 2013, bringing the total distance to approximately 1,000km. This huge project was funded and built by the DEC with MTBF support. The South West and Great Southern Development Commissions contributed significant funding to the trail. Supported was also received from the Department of Corrective Services, as well as grants from Lotterywest and the Department of Sport and Recreation. DEC continues to partner with the MTBF to manage and maintain the trail. A significant number of volunteers also look after various sections, tidying up where they can and reporting any additional work requirements to the DEC.

Was it worth the time, money and effort spent piecing together this long distance cycle route? Currently the Munda Biddi is said to attract more 21,000 visitors each year and they come from all over the world. It’s given a welcome boost to the small towns along the route and provides visitors with a great way of experiencing Western Australia’s natural heritage.

General Information

Planning Your Ride: For anyone wanting to do all (or even part) of the ride, the Munda Biddi Trail Foundation maps are essential—they can be ordered from www.mundabiddi.org.au. Before setting off you need get on to the Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC) website (www.dec.wa.gov.au/parks-and-recreation). Check for latest trail information including any long-term diversions for which you can download maps. The recreation and trails unit of DEC (recreationandtrails@dec.wa.gov.au) is also a good contact point when planning a ride along the Munda Biddi.

When to Go: South-western Australia has a relatively cycling friendly climate, but the best times to tackle the trail are spring, summer and autumn, with the proviso that you need to be careful in summer as a stint of really hot weather can increase the bushfire threat and make riding uncomfortable. Whenever you ride, it’s likely that you’ll encounter varying weather over the 20 or so days that it takes to complete the route, so your planning and equipment should reflect this.

What to Ride: I have seen images of touring bikes and hybrids using the trail, but for the tougher sections a mountain bike is the weapon of choice, unless you’re happy to do some walking. There are touring routes that skirt past a few of the technical sections, but then these reduce the off-road flavour of the ride.